Romsdalshornet (1550) via the North face.

Romsdalshornet from Romsdalen. First ascent: Carl Hall, Mattias Soggemoen, Erik Norahagen, 1. September 1881. More info

68.  The North Face (O.H. Furuseth, P. Sabro, R. Ødegard, H.Nygard, 1920) 

A classic and popular route with some good climbing and fine situations high above the Romsdal valley. The approach takes about 1.5 hours from Vengedal until the path crosses the river at a point east of the col on Lillefjell. Scramble up from here to the col and then pleasantly up the river to the gap under the north wall and the start of the climb. hours. 300m. Grade III. From the gap scramble easily up to the first steep section. This is best crossed from right to left (90m, II) and leads to the platform at the bottom of the wall proper. 

The wall may be taken directly for 90m (IV) though it is usually climbed by easier and more enjoyable pitches beginning from a groove on the left of the platform. After a pitch up the groove (III) a steep wall is climbed on good holds (III+) to square cut edge. Step out left and trend left up chimneys for two rope lengths. (III, II) to scree ledges. Cross these, then slabs rightwatds and ascend through a gap in the skyline (II) onto the ridge. A further two rope lengths trending right (II) bring one to the summit cairns.

Tony Howard: Walks and Climbs in Romsdal, Norway. Cicerone Press 1979.

Trolltindene

01b 37a romsdalshorn

Under the north face.

From the gap scramble easily up to the first steep section. This is best crossed from right to left (90m, II)... 

01b 37c geir store vengetind

and leads to the platform at the bottom of the wall proper. Store Vengetinden behind.

The wall may be taken directly for 90m (IV) though it is usually climbed by easier and more enjoyable pitches beginning from a groove on the left of the platform.

Torshammeren.

After a pitch up the groove (III) a steep wall is climbed on good holds (III+)... 

to a square cut edge.

Step out left and trend left up chimneys for two rope lengths. (III, II) to scree ledges.

On the summit.

01b 39b bjørn

Bjørn.

The Troll Wall.

01b 40a hytte

The summit cabin.

76. Descent by the Ordinary Route

After climbing down the south ridge, abseil into Hall's Renne (peg in place) and follow the path down the left side of the gully (snow in early season). DO NOT go straight down Hall's Renne. After 90 m or so, the path trends left out of the gully and zig-zags down the east face, then down scree (or snow) slopes to Hornvatn and Vengedal. 2 hours. 

Abseiling into Hall´s Renne.

At the top of Hall´s Renne.

DO NOT go straight down Hall's Renne (like we did).

01b 40f geir romsdalshorn

Looking for a place to abseil.


01b 41a rapell

Climbed by Bjørn Arntzen and Geir Jenssen, 19. July 1981.

© Geir Jenssen 2017