Jægervasstinden (1543), The Lyngen Peninsula, Norway
Store Jægervasstinden as seen from
The South-West ridge
on Store Jægervasstinden was climbed by Bjørn Arntzen and
Geir Jenssen on April 3rd 1985.
First ascent: Geoffrey Hastings,
William C. Slingsby, Walter
Perry Haskett-Smith (UK) and Elias Hogrenning (N), 1898.
The Store Jægervandtind
"Now we were in full swing, and during the next fortnight we had
nothing but success. Each succeeding mountain
expedition, if possible, seemed to possess more interesting
characteristics than the last one we had undertaken; each
was, in fact, most enjoyable.
We shall long remember the bergschrund into which on another day our
leader cut a way, and hacked an icy staircase
up through the overhanging lip on the other side; nor shall we soon
forget the wicked Trold which looked ddown upon us
maliciously all the time, nor the steep couloir above, and the element
of uncertainty as to our position, which urged us
quickly onward. ‘Ah! Now we know where we are. For- ward!’ See our new
leader swinging himself out of sight at
the end of the first of the three peaks which together form the Store
Jægervandtind. Hear him call out, ‘Come along,
you fellows: it’s all right.’ See the narrow snow ridge; no fear of
cornices in this nightless land. Look down far, far
below on both sides to the glaciers. But on, on, on. A second peak,
another gap and narrow connecting ridge, and
Was ever such a view seen in Finmarken before? In every direction it
was clear, and everywhere it was beautiful. North,
beyond Pipertind and the Bird Island, was the open sea. Beyond that, so
far as is known, is no land between it and
the Pole. A maze of grand peaks surrounded us. North-east was the
Jökulsfjord and the one glacier in Europe which
launches a flotilla of little icebergs into the sea direct. This
remarkable glacier was explored a few weeks later by
Hastings. The head of the long forest valley of Reisendal could be
seen. South-east, beyond Lyngen, could clearly be
seen, not 40 miles away, the sterile uplands of that intrusive Russian
land. A little further south were the hog-backed
Swedish mountains, from which in spring the nomad Lapps drive their
reindeer away from the plague of flies to the sea
coasts of Lyngen, Balsfjord, and other places."
Slingsby: Mountaineering In Arctic Norway, Alpine Journal 1899.)
A brief route description: We
started from Fastdalen on the Eastern side of the peninsula. Follow
Fastdalen into Russedalen (4 km).
Then follow Russedalen until you
reach Stortinddalsbreen (4 km) situated between Tvillingstinden and
Follow the glacier on the right hand side until you reach
the plateau approx. 900 m above sea level.
Cross the glacier and
climb up to the col between Trolltinden og Store Jægervasstinden
From here easy mixed climbing until you reach the South-West
Follow the ridge until you reach what
first looks like the main summit but actually is the foresummit.
We had to
climb down a steep cliff to reach the main summit. A rope is
absolutely necessary here.
Bjørn Arntzen on Stortinddalsbreen. Store Jægervasstinden
the left. The summit is hidden in the clouds.
The weather is getting worse. Bjørn Arntzen above the col
between Trolltinden and Store Jægervasstinden.
Bjørn Arntzen downclimbing from the foresummit to reach the main
A blizzard just below the summit.
The author on the summit.
Our camp in Russedalen. Isskardtindene
in the background.
Geir Jenssen 2009