Nállancohkka (1328), The Lyngen Peninsula, Norway


Nállancohkka as seen from Lyngenfjorden. Nállangáisi to the left.

Our route traverses the mountain by ascending the West face and descending the East ridge.
A brief route description: Follow Steindalsbreen up to the West face of Nállancohkka. Beware of huge crevasses on the glacier. The West face was climbed by following an easy snow slope. The East ridge has some very steep sections where a rope can be necessary.
Follow the East ridge to the saddle between Nallancohkka and Gaskacohkka.

Climbed by Bjørn Arntzen, Geir Jenssen and Torgeir Kjus, 5. August 1987.

From Alpine Journal 1975:

Winter climbing in Lyngen
J. M. G. Sheridan

"In the early winter of 1973, the Mountain Leaders of the Royal Marines and one of their Instructors' Courses, were given clearance to visit the Lyngen Alps in N Norway on completion of their Arctic Training.

Dinotind (1326 m) (marked Nallancakka on the map) was climbed by 3 routes all of middling Grade II and Grade II Sup standard. These were the SW Ridge, the W face and the NW Ridge. The long ridge running E from the N Summit of Dinotind was traversed later and included in a long expedition to climb Gaskacakka (1516 m) by the W Ridge. From the col below the W Ridge, the route is nearly 2000 ft long and in places very steep; reminiscent of Observatoty Ridge on Ben Nevis. The party of 8 who climbed this peak was caught out by
darkness and, instead of returning along the ridge, they made a descent from the col down to the glacier whence they walked up to the high camp. They arrived exhausted and very cold just before midnight after 18 hours climbing."


Bjørn Arntzen and Torgeir Kjus in front of Sfinxen.

Steindalsbreen as seen from the summit

The East ridge with Point 1308 as seen from the summit.

One of the difficult sections on the East ridge. Where´s the rope?

Torgeir Kjus passing an old rope on the East ridge. The rope was probably left by a British team who climbed the same route in March 1973.

Steindalsbreen as seen from the saddle between Nállancohkka and Gaskacohkka.

© Geir Jenssen 2012